Plus Size Dresses

In my last article, we looked at designer lingo for plus size dresses Let’s take a look at some of the fashion terms that we can use to describe the waistline on a dress.  And it doesn’t have to be for plus size gals, but that’s what we write about here, so we’ll stay on topic as best we can.

If we start high and go low, we actually will run into dresses with no waistline first.  Also called a princess seam, this is dress with lines that run the entire length, from the shoulder and neck all the way down to the hem.  It is thought to produce a slimming effect, and is sometimes called an A-line as well.  I’m not so sure about the slimming effect of any cut, pattern, or garment, but that’s a subject for another post.

Moving along, we find plus size dresses with the empire waist.  This is a cut that has the waist just below the bust line, and is the highest of patterns that actually have real waistlines included.  It is very popular today, and creates an elegant look that goes well with lots of shapes and sizes.

A raised waistline falls lower than the empire, usually about an inch or so above your natural waistline.  More and more today, I see raised waistlines called empires, but it somewhat varies depending on how the dress fits you as well.  A higher raised waistline could be closer to en empire when worn by a different person.

A natural waistline, of course, is one that falls right on your natural waist.  Neither too high or too low, it is probably the most common, or at least has been unti lthe advent of low-cut everything.

This brings us to the drop waist in the world of plus size dresses.  This is a cut that falls slightly below the natural waist, and is a natural compliment to the raised waistline.  You have to be a little careful here, since this is a cut that doesn’t look good on everyone.  You have to have a specific body type to pull it off, and chances are you know if you can or not.

That sums up the standard cuts for dresses, but there is a bit more.  These descriptions have all been assuming a horizontal, straight line.  but that’s not always the case.  Waistlines can come in V’s, U’s, diagonal, and inverted V’s and U’s.  So if we pair up the line with the level, we can get some 23+ combinations that can be broken down in  these fundamental groups, and easily described.

I hear the same question over and over again from my clients - “I know what want, but I don’t know how to describe it to a sales person.”  The problem, of course, is one of communication and not ability.  The fashion world uses a language all its own, and if you don’t understand the terminology you might as well be speaking in a different language.

For communication to occur, a message must be sent, received, and understood.  If you don’t know the language of the land you’re not going to be able to accomplish the most basic task of describing a dress that you like.  So to solve this problem and bring a little more plus size fashion joy into your life, I’m going to start a series of articles that teaches you how to not only describe the cut and fit that you’re looking for, but also converse intelligently about it when you see someone else wearing it.  Let’s get going.

We’ll start at the top, and in the world of plus size dresses that’s the neckline.  I classify necklines in 6 different categories.  There are several different modifiers that can be applied to each category, and we’ll cover those last.

V Neckline

Plus size dresses with this neckline (and any size dresses, actually) have a literal V-shape with a point at the bottom.  There can be any number of intermediate angles and sides on the way down, but the defining attribute of a V neckline in a dress is the vertex, or sharp angle at the bottom.  If it is rounded or squared we’re dealing with a different cut.

Bateau

This cut runs very wide to the shoulders with a slight arc beneath the neck.  It generally stays high, but it may come down a bit.  Then again, it doesn’t have to.  Dresses with this cut still hang on your shoulders.  If they do not, they are not a bateau neckline.  It is similar to a U or a scoop except that it runs much more horizontal at the bottom, again, parallel to the ground.

Off The Shoulders

This is a plus size dress with a cut that still goes around the arms, but not over the shoulders.  The top of the shoulders will be bare with an off the shoulders neckline, but the sides of the shoulders will still be covered by material.  Do not confuse this cut with a strapless neckline, which is completely off the arms altogether.

Scoop

As mentioned above, a scoop neck is one that swoops down in a graceful arc.  It is not pointed at the bottom, it is not parallel to the ground, it is an upside down U.  This is a very common neckline in plus size dresses today, but don’t over do it.  You want to present an entire, polished package.  Not draw too much attention to one feature.

T-Line

Think of this as your basic neckline, found in most t shirts and sweaters.  It simply surrounds the neck evenly on all sides, keeping equidistant from the neck.  It is symmetrical and quite basic.  Some people will refer to this as the jewel neckline.

Polo Neckline

Also known as the turtle neck for obvious reasons.  This cut involves fabric that encircles the neck and bunches up in the process.  It is not necessarily tight or lose, but can be either.  It is quite popular in the winter and colder months.

Now, to take all these a step farther, there are variations of every one of them, and some variations don’t have a name or any basis in fashion design fundamentals whatsoever.  Some necklines are inexplicable, and you either like them or hate them.  They’ll likely never catch on in the mainstream, though, so there’s no need to give them a formal name.

These are the basics for plus size dress necklines, though, and you’ll be able to communicate intelligently with staff at any plus size store in the country when talking about necklines.  Once we pair this knowledge up with waistlines and hemlines, you’ll have the whole package and be able to describe and ask for any type of dress that you can imagine.  It’s fun, trust me.