Plus Size Dresses

I hear the same question over and over again from my clients - “I know what want, but I don’t know how to describe it to a sales person.”  The problem, of course, is one of communication and not ability.  The fashion world uses a language all its own, and if you don’t understand the terminology you might as well be speaking in a different language.

For communication to occur, a message must be sent, received, and understood.  If you don’t know the language of the land you’re not going to be able to accomplish the most basic task of describing a dress that you like.  So to solve this problem and bring a little more plus size fashion joy into your life, I’m going to start a series of articles that teaches you how to not only describe the cut and fit that you’re looking for, but also converse intelligently about it when you see someone else wearing it.  Let’s get going.

We’ll start at the top, and in the world of plus size dresses that’s the neckline.  I classify necklines in 6 different categories.  There are several different modifiers that can be applied to each category, and we’ll cover those last.

V Neckline

Plus size dresses with this neckline (and any size dresses, actually) have a literal V-shape with a point at the bottom.  There can be any number of intermediate angles and sides on the way down, but the defining attribute of a V neckline in a dress is the vertex, or sharp angle at the bottom.  If it is rounded or squared we’re dealing with a different cut.

Bateau

This cut runs very wide to the shoulders with a slight arc beneath the neck.  It generally stays high, but it may come down a bit.  Then again, it doesn’t have to.  Dresses with this cut still hang on your shoulders.  If they do not, they are not a bateau neckline.  It is similar to a U or a scoop except that it runs much more horizontal at the bottom, again, parallel to the ground.

Off The Shoulders

This is a plus size dress with a cut that still goes around the arms, but not over the shoulders.  The top of the shoulders will be bare with an off the shoulders neckline, but the sides of the shoulders will still be covered by material.  Do not confuse this cut with a strapless neckline, which is completely off the arms altogether.

Scoop

As mentioned above, a scoop neck is one that swoops down in a graceful arc.  It is not pointed at the bottom, it is not parallel to the ground, it is an upside down U.  This is a very common neckline in plus size dresses today, but don’t over do it.  You want to present an entire, polished package.  Not draw too much attention to one feature.

T-Line

Think of this as your basic neckline, found in most t shirts and sweaters.  It simply surrounds the neck evenly on all sides, keeping equidistant from the neck.  It is symmetrical and quite basic.  Some people will refer to this as the jewel neckline.

Polo Neckline

Also known as the turtle neck for obvious reasons.  This cut involves fabric that encircles the neck and bunches up in the process.  It is not necessarily tight or lose, but can be either.  It is quite popular in the winter and colder months.

Now, to take all these a step farther, there are variations of every one of them, and some variations don’t have a name or any basis in fashion design fundamentals whatsoever.  Some necklines are inexplicable, and you either like them or hate them.  They’ll likely never catch on in the mainstream, though, so there’s no need to give them a formal name.

These are the basics for plus size dress necklines, though, and you’ll be able to communicate intelligently with staff at any plus size store in the country when talking about necklines.  Once we pair this knowledge up with waistlines and hemlines, you’ll have the whole package and be able to describe and ask for any type of dress that you can imagine.  It’s fun, trust me.

Since this website is about ALL things related to plus, we thought it would be interesting to give a little history on what is probably the most widely recognized retailer of plus size designer clothing, Lane Bryant.  What most people don’t realize is that Lane Bryant is part of a larger corporation called Charming Shoppes that owns such stores as Catherine’s and the Fashion Bug.  Both (Lane Bryant and Charming Shoppes) have an interesting history and weren’t always in the plus size designer clothing industry.

The first public face, outside of the original Charm Shoppes store, of Charming Shoppes was the Fashion Bug stores which opened in the 1960’s. Considered pioneers of computerized inventory management and sales, Fashion Bug stores were wildly popular and expanded quickly all the way through the 1990’s.

In 2000 Charming Shoppes purchased Catherine’s Stores Corporation in an effort to firmly plant themselves into the plus size women’s clothing market, including plus size dresses, plus size outerwear, and plus size shoes. They followed this quickly with the purchase of Lane Bryant in 2001, adding the plus size powerhouse to its already successful Fashion Bug and Catherine’s dynasty. It quickly followed the Lane Bryant acquisition with the launch of Pettite Sophisticate, a store catering to smaller size women.

If we take a look at the company’s financial performance based on their stock price, we see that in 1993 they split their stock, and immediately afterwards saw a sharp decrease in stock price over the next three years (adjusted for split price). That brings us to 1996, a year when the Charming Shoppes successfully remade itself as a socially responsible company by helping women and children in need, focusing on women’s’ health issues, and brining attention to family and financial issues that women face. This program was championed by then CEO Dorrit J. Bern, and marked an immediate, sharp rise in stock price that lasted through the year.

Charming Shoppes stock price continued to fluctuate up and down over the next several years, but moved generally in an upward trend.  Plus size dresses were continuing to slowly climb in popularity.   It was seemingly unaffected by the acquisition of Catherine’s and Lane Bryant, and was in a holding pattern through much of the late 1990’s and early 2000’s.

In 2003 we see a sharp rise in the stock price that has continued through h2007 before seeing any decline whatsoever. This can be directly tied to the opening of the Lane Bryant website to internet sales, a move that brought an incredibly lucrative new revenue stream in for the Charming Shoppes Corporation. Sales have declined in 2008, one can assume in part due to the prevailing economic conditions in the country.

Compared to previous years, sales for the Charming Shoppes Corporation are down $265 million over the first two quarters. That’s 20% of their total sales. Not something to take lightly. Taken as separates, Lane Bryant is down $47 million, Fashion Bug is down $69 million, and Catherine’s is down $24 million. It’s possible that they’ll make up the difference in the second two quarters of the year, but historically they have had very few strong 3rd and 4th quarters.

What does this mean for the plus size fashion industry? Not much, but the Lane Bryant sales figures are a good indicator that there is quite a bit less demand for plus size dresses and plus size clothes so far this year. One can assume this is due in part to less disposable income due to the slowing economy and gas prices since none of the other large fashion houses has seen a comparable rise in sales.